Not in Fashion.
Edited by Susanne Gaensheimer, Sophie von Olfers.
Text by Michael Bracewell, Jason Evans, Jule Hillgärtner.
Kerber, 2011. 320 pp., 217 color and 94 black & white illustrations, 9½x11¾".
Fashion photography is about much more than just depicting
clothes. Far larger conceptions of glamour, culture, sex and consumption
play out every month in two-page advertising spreads
in Vogue and W, and in the editorial shoots of Purple and V.
Brazenly occupying the fraught overlap between art and commerce,
the most provocative fashion photography combines
exquisite come-ons with subtle affronts, to convention, to propriety,
to our pride. The 1990s constituted an exciting moment
in fashion photography, as a generation of practitioners made
work that was bluntly physical and brash, celebrating music,
subculture and intimacy in the most creative fringes of twenty and
thirty-something life. Not in Fashion collects some of the
strongest photographs, campaigns and picture series from
magazines of the 1990s—much of which was done by photographers
who maintained careers as fine artists while executing
editorial and campaign work for some of the industry’s leading
designers and publications. This volume includes seductive,
challenging work by artists including Vanessa Beecroft, Walter
van Beirendonck, Bernadette Corporation, Ayzit Bostan, BLESS,
Mark Borthwick, Susan Cianciolo, Maria Cornejo, Corinne Day,
Anders Edström, Jason Evans, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela,
M/M (Paris), Cris Moor, Kostas Murkudis, Collier Schorr, Nigel
Shafran, Juergen Teller and Wolfgang Tillmans.